New York in retrospect

New York on a Sunday has a different feel. Central Park is full of people walking and riding and picnicking, and sleeping, doing yoga – it is the real lungs of the city and the playground for people and their pets. I never realised how big it is. It is very warm, though the humidity has eased so it is easier to be outside.

I did say previously we had managed the metro. A little premature – we set off for Wall St and the ground zero area. We ended up over in Brooklyn as we could not follow the announcement on the train, which normally went downtown. Not to worry, we regrouped and got back to where we meant to be. Wall St is just as it looks in the press. A lot of the buildings have pavement barricades so you cannot get close, and a lot of police seem to be evident. The photo is just beside the NY stock exchange, looking towards Trinity Church which was a focal point for the locals on 9/11

The World Trade area was quiet – they have started to rebuild – people in the area were not talking, just moving quite respectfully past. Photo taking seems too disrespectful. It is indeed sacred ground, no matter what is constructed in the future.

There was Second St market on yesterday – street stalls on both sides of the road for a number of blocks, today it is our street – Avenue of the Americas, or 6^th st. Stalls everywhere selling the same things they do the world over. Only difference is the wording in the T shirts.

The hotel room is 43 floors up, so I guess we are a little far to hear the sirens at night, but apart from the odd fire truck, I am surprised at not hearing more police sirens particularly. There are signs in the streets – no honking – you are fined quite heavily. An effort in reducing noise pollution I guess.

We leave tomorrow and I will not be teary the way I am when flying out of UK. New York has been a fascinating, eye opening experience, but I have to admit I haven’t got attuned to its character. I am doing it a great injustice, I guess. You would need to spend a long time here to get the personality and rhythm that is this unique and fast moving city. It would need a great deal of energy to handle that. There are world class art galleries and museums , theatre and style to be explored, but three days does not permit that level of exploration. (particularly when you hit the city on a holiday weekend, and the US Open being held. This hotel alone is probably the biggest we have ever stayed in and is full – the lobby is packed all the time with people coming and going.

So we will pack and move on for more adventures

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Blog -New York and how we have walked

It was raining as we woke this morning, but by the time we were ready to go , the weather was clearing and it has become a very warm, sunny and very humid day. You have to admire the tennis players at the US Open, a few miles away. We launched out armed with maps, not too visible, good walking shoes, and some determination to see as much as we could without stressing that you will never see it all. In NY you seem to sight see by looking up a lot – the building s are so tall, and the variety of architecture and construction styles is incredible. A lovely art deco apartment block will be snuggled up to a huge modern glass construction that grazes the clouds. And the decoration on the older buildings is a fascinating juxtaposition in a mega city of bustle and modern life. We saw the Empire State building and discussed the films you know so well – An affair to remember and its modern partner Sleepless in Seattle,the Chrysler Buidling, a lovley art deco eample, with clever car features embedded within the toal structure; the United Nations building (North by northwest); the flags were not up though as they are not in session – the summer recess., we cruised through Grand Central Station – incredible in its decor inside – a feature in so many films, and the arrivals point for millions of immigrants and travellers. It is worth a visit for anyone in NY, not just train fans. The majority of long haul trains go from Penn station – not nearly so inviting – a purpose built structure – no character at all. Passed Radio City music hall, Madison Square Garden, checked out Macy’s ground floor - just like Myers, nothing of note. I dare not breath the air of the majority of the shops on Fifth Avenue – all the usual players, and really, not a lot that is not seen in Sydney and Melbourne. The fall clothes are in, girls, there still seems to be cropped jackets, and the colours in Gap were grey and a cherry red, good combination.
Some of the streets were quite empty for a Saturday morning. We mastered the Metro underground system). A little hesitation in trying to get the tickets, but after some guidance from a friendly local through the myriad of choices, we were off to the other end of Central Park on the train – fast, reasonably clean. The tracks are more doubles than the single way in London, and the tracks are quite close to the surface - so when changing from one line to another, you often have to come above ground, cross the road, and go down again. We went to visit to the huge Cathedral of St John the Divine. In the brochure, it is listed as the largest cathedral in the world – we were surprised, but it is massive, and we have seen some pretty big ones in UK. It is undergoing a lot of repair and continual building – it is no yet complete. In Dec 2001 it suffered a significant fire, and there is still evidence of that. But it is a beautiful, clean design and the soaring pale pillars and wonderful stained glass windows are awe inspiring.

Overall, we felt better about the city than we did yesterday; it is still huge, but I guess the locals get to know their little corner of it and that is that. It is fast, and very impersonal, pretty dirty in places, and there are the intriguing columns of steam that come through the gratings in the road, from the pipes and subterranean world of New York. It is a city that demands you ride on its terms, it will not bend to yours, so keep with the flow, or you will be left behind. Even the traffic signals are somewhat ignored in order to get where you want quickly. We will have to watch that when we return.

There will be more exploring tomorrow, down the financial end of town, so another venture on the metro. But first, rest the feet a little....and do the blog while the thoughts are fresh

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The big apple and indigestion

The alarm was on for 4.00 so we would not miss a moment of the arrival into NY. We sailed under the Narrows Bridge, an amazing site in the darkness, the buoys in the Hudson river flashed red, and have a bell that rings on them as well, quite eery in the stillness of the new day. The ship could hardly be heard - just glided through the morning. we then all gathered on the left (port/ side for the famous lady with the torch. You know what she looks like - in the half light the photos dont look great, but she still looked serene and proud. (Her index finger that holds the torch up, is over eight feet tall alone. It is an impressive site.
Then was the sad time to leave the ship, and the challenge of US customs. The finger prints were taken photos taken, passports checked and questions asked. And then we were through - the touts ready to pounce on the unsuspecing tourists fighting for taxis. My other half conquered it all, and we got into a famous yellow cab. The ride was something else -Im not sure how we got to the hotel, but we did.
It is a full on scary place, this city of so many diversities, and surprises. It is noisy and fast, and no one cares for anyone or so it seems. But we found Tiffanys, and Saks, and Times Square, and walked most of Fifth Avenue, and looked up a lot, to see how this city stretches its fingers to the clouds. (Photos were taken in Fifth Ave)
After a sleep, we will launch into the streets again, and see what the city wants to show us. I have to admit to feeling quite out of depth in this city. I guess after having spent time in London, I have forgotten it takes a long time to find yourself in a big city, and this one may be just too much for me. We'll see.

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The bags are out

All good things have to end, and so does this adventure. We have seen so much and done much. We have sailed past icebergs and walked miles through Scandinavia and Nova Scotia. We never thought we would see anything of Greenland, but we sailed the Prince Christiansen fjord and saw the most glorious glacier formations, and reflections, ice fields and mini icebergs in all shapes and sizes. We saw Bergen in the sunshine, and walked Copenhagen, and got to ride over the huge bridge to Malmo in Sweden. And now we start a new adventure. We are currently off the coast of Nantucket – suddenly all these names from novels and films come alive.

It is always a little sad leaving a ship. It has been your home, and safety, and friend in a foreign port, welcoming you back from a day exploring. And now we are being sent on our way.

New York – we are labelled (green luggage – disembark 10.30am). Then we are on our own in the big city. It will be exciting and a little scary at first, but I am sure we will get the hang it.

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Halifax in the rain

Yes, the rain followed us ,but it is still a warm, friendly city. We were met in the harbour by a little tug boat, appearing to have a hat on. A further check showed a little face, it was Theodore Too. Just as Thomas the engine has a following, Theodore is a character in a children’s tale, and is also an active escort in the harbour. There was a bagpipe band and the town cryer as well on the wharf. Quite a welcome. It might have rained for most of the day, but as I do this there is a gorgeous pink and red sunset over the water as we head south towards New York.

The rain was solid but we checked out the Maritime Museum – now I am not a big museum fan, but this had artefacts from the Titanic together with photos, and a huge model of the ship itself. There was another event in 1917 which had a much larger loss of life when an ammunition ship was hit in the harbour by another ship, and drifted towards shore when the crew realised what was to happen. The resultant explosion was the biggest manmade explosion on earth until the atomic bombs in Japan. Over 100,000 were killed and blocks of residential areas of Halifax were totally demolished. To my ignorance, I had never heard of this event. Some of the displays are amazing.

We checked out the main street, the Anglican church of St Paul, built in the Wren tradition, 40 years before the founding of Australia. It reinforces how young we really are.

We are on the homeward run, with the morning lecture on what to do for leaving the ship in New York. I can see a paper trail developing. The Canadians were strict, needing to check full passport or drivers licence as well as ship identity. But I can see the US being very strict, so we will sit at the front of the class.

I am going to miss the gentle rocking to sleep by the ship, not having to think about preparing meals (that starts again in London), the wonderful sunrise and sunset that happens outside our door, the ever changing vistas and the new experiences that happen as you travel in this style.

You may see ads for the lifestyle on the waters. I will tell you what I haven’t done on board – I did not use the spa – expensive, and they try to sell product all the time. I am too old as well – the girls are so young and pretty, it is too intimidating. I did not do the cookery classes – too much like work. I did not play the casino – I could not work a slot machine if I tried, though my other half tried to explain blackjack (21), and that was too much.

But we did walk the deck - 3 times round is a mile, so we mounted up the miles. We enjoyed the food, though we kept it simple. We enjoyed breakfast in our suite watching the world go by, waved to people waving at us a s we arrived and left the ports, drank wine on our balcony and thought we were pretty lucky to do all of this.

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Anne’s Country

I have always had a fondness for this part of Canada, though I have never been here. As an Anne of Green Gables fan, these places have featured in the tales, and were known from my childhood. Sydney may be mentioned, though I cannot remember, but the people of this city turned on a warm welcome, and all the locals seemed happy to see us. They gave way generously at traffic crossings, when we forgot to look the opposite way –left then right. The people in the street were friendly, and I even found the mobile library about to depart. She had a rotation of twelve different routes in a pretty old style bus (like a typical American school bus).And of course I checked out the Library – naturally, they were inundated with people off the ship all trying to get free internet. I felt for the Library staff –been there, done that!

There are pretty two and three story clap board houses, gently coloured in complimenting hues, but some also showing signs of the harsh northern winters, with quite a coat of moss on roof and northern sides. There are signs on the buildings at the wharf here - - beware of falling ice and snow. Says it all. The main street is nothing special, a strange feel almost of the Wild West or frontier towns of the past, very wide, and shops without many verandas – I guess due to heavy snow dumps.

I could imagine Anne Shirley feeling at home amongst these friendly people.

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St Pierre and all that fog

More correctly, the name of the little piece of France off the east coast of Canada is St Pierre et Miquelon. This tiny place appeared out of the fog this morning. We had been woken by the fog horn sounding a lonely call in the mist and half light of morning. After cancelling our organised tour, we took off on the path into the town on our own. Only a few meters away, the ship had disappeared in the fog. A tiny geography break – we are just beneath the Gulf of Labrador, the warm currents coming up from the south and the cooler water from the north a meeting, fogs are a huge feature for much of the year.

. Only 6000 people live here – speak French, use euros, a little piece of France. So we practiced our french again, replied to the usual greetings appropriately (I hope), and explored. I have some French blood, but I have to be honest and ask why they stop here. A pleasant enough little fishing town, with a big police station, and hilly streets, colourful weatherboard houses but little else we could see. I did smile over the cars, so many seem to drive (rather erratically, like all French drivers), those wonderful little Renault vans used in the Pink Panther movies. I expected to see Inspector Cleuseaut any moment.

We move on to Canada again tomorrow, Sydney and then Halifax (for Anne of Green Gable fans, a little highlight) so only a couple more days of the sea life. (The internet is still far too slow to get photos onto the blog, so will work on them in a day or so)

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The Eurodam Waltz

I mentioned in a previous posting how the ship develops a personality with the sound of the horn, and the operational sounds. Last night it was confirmed with the amazing departure from St Johns. We had been told about the departure music in the harbour – as we blew the horn three times which is normal as you leave the dock, all the other ships in the little harbour – freighters, local fishing boats, coastal traders and oil boats, and private vessels, all started sounding their horns in salute at the maiden departure from their port, of a ne ship. There were lots of people lining the wharf, and all along the cliff face as we again navigated the very narrow entrance to the harbour. The sound of the horns – others blowing, then our ship replying, was echoing round the cliffs and hills at the back of the city. This was called the Eurodam waltz. An experience that will not be repeated any time soon. I could imagine all the ships, big and small , all trying to outdo each other to call out their greetings and farewells. A tissue was needed.
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Out in the blue, and we find Newfoundland

We sailed 782 nautical miles straight, from Greenland to Newfoundland. That was another sea day. What does one do on a sea day? You catch up on blog writing (our technique is to put them as word docs, and then when we get to port, or a reasonable patch of internet availability, and then upload to the blog site. We had to practice our balance technique a little, as we encountered force 8 gales. Walking on the deck was a challenge, but you really felt you were at sea. This was coming down through the Labrador sea. These days are also handy to catch up on films you haven’t seen, with a dvd in your room standard now. We haven’t had outside tv reception for days, so the world could be in strife and little would reach us. The ship does download a news summary from various national newspapers. We receive Australian and US, but it always seems to be sports. The shops of course are open when we are at sea, to encourage duty free shopping – not really feasible for Australians who still have a long way to go.
We were told the entry in to St Johns would be very précise and delicate, the largest ship to ever enter their harbour. It was a glorious morning, and a soft warm wind, blowing off the gulf stream. A pilot had to be boarded, and there were people lining the cliffs of the cliffs lining the harbour entrance. The ship glided in through an very small gap, and we spun 360 to line up at the wharf, a street away from the centre of the city. (The ship can spin on itself and turn completely – it must be amazing to see from te shore)
St Johns is a hilly city, 150, 000 population, has its own university, ad a mixed industry, obviously fishing as part, but oil is a major player now, so is a very wanted friend with the mainland. The houses are very similar in style, several stories high, gables in the roof, majority in weatherboard, and many different colours. House owners are only able to change the colour, not the style, or take off shutters and other features. For those who have seen San Francisco, there is a great similarity. The locals seem friendly, though after a summer of ships, and tourist invasions, I guess a few are looking forward to their long cold winter a little.
I thank anyone who has read this little travel tale, and appreciate any comments.
Tonight as we leave there is to be a musical send off from the shore, so more will be said of this pretty and surprising little Canadian outpost.
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Iceland to Greenland

It was 5.30am and we were scrambling out of bed for icebergs – not what you expected, but this was quite surreal – light was just penetrating the gloom of night and there was a large iceberg floating just near the ship. It is one of those moments you remember, when you see one of these huge creations – yes, the colours are amazing – blue to aqua at the base and almost transparent in parts. Considering there is 70% under water, their size is significant. We glided through Prince Christian Sound at the base of Greenland as dawn broke, and proceeded through the fjords seeing glaciers, and more icebergs, and small floating ice pieces. Fog descended again, and as I write this, the fog horn is sounding again. We saw a small weather research outpost, where a couple of hardy souls came out on their little boat to see us. It was freezing and glorious all at once, and most of the passengers were out to absorb as much as we could.

I wrote of the sounds of the ship a couple of posts ago. I did not know of the sound of the ice. We glided so silently as we entered patches of floating ice, and there was the gentle but persistent sound of cracking – the ice, was whispering to itself. It was very gentle and special. The fog is still there and the horn sounds, and reverberates in the silence of the fjord.

As we left Bergen, the sound of our horn, plus those of the responding ships, all reverberated in the hills surrounding the city, making a gentle responding echo. In the greater space of the fjord and water as we emerge from Prince Christian Sound, it is a different music of exit, quiet, but for our final calls of the fog.

There is another sea day of gentle swaying and rocking, hopefully.

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We sail heavy seas and find Iceland

I am not sure what I expected Iceland to be like, but it is a very differ place to the fjords and scenery we left behind in Scandinavia. As we approached, it was flat and quite barren, then a few very rugged mountain peaks, savagely gouged through volcanic activity and glaciers. There are hardly any trees, if you were lost, I guess you just stand up.

Reykjavik is not a huge city, though it is spreading out as growth comes. Iceland has diversified from a mono economy of fishing, to a diversified product development including energy production. Thus it is a very prosperous city, and very clean, uncluttered and confident in itself. The locals speak generally three or four languages, English being mandatory at school. Icelandic is quite a guttural language with Germanic overtones, but also heavily influenced by the Scandinavian and the Viking past.

We walked quite a lot of the city, and saw thee beautiful Lutheran cathedral on the hill above the city. It is spectacular inside, so filled with light and space. There is very little adornment as is the Lutheran tradition, which adds to the drama of the building. We loved it.

We are now at sea for three days, high in the North Atlantic, so far from home. The seas ar a little lumpy (a sea term!), but we are fine, and having a nice time exploring the ship, and then coming back to the cabin to watch a dvd. The Library is quite extensive, with books on many subjects, very good fiction collection and a huge dvd range.

It is a hard fact though that these waters also saw some very heavy battles through the war, and the bleakness of the day reinforces how terrible it would have been. There are different realities going on as we sail these seas.

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Drifting in and out of Norway

I woke this morning to find a beautiful moon over the fjord as we cruised up to Bergen. It was so simple and wonderful all at once. Bergen on the previous visit was wet and cold and windy. Today has been glorious, sunny and quite warm. We left the ship early, and decided to try the funicular railway. We were the first on board, at 9.am, after working our way through automatic ticket machines in Norwegian.(Why cant Melbourne check out some of these systems. They are so easy to use) The ride to the top and back was amazing. Bergen is laid out before you and you can see for miles.

Norway has been lovely. Like Demark, it is a very clean, uncluttered, very well off though I guess there are poorer areas. We chose to wander on our own in the cities, and we have found pretty little side streets and views appear in unexpected places. Stavanger was so pretty. It was Saturday – people playing sports in the city square, eating out, a mini marathon was going on past the ship, and families were coming down to look at the sight. For most of these ports, it is the first time this ship has come in. We had a fire boat with water fountain in front of us coming into Stavenger.

The sunset as we left Stavenger was stunning. The photos hopefully will give a little indication.

Life on ship takes on a dreamlike quality after you get over the life boat drill and find your way around. Drifting in and out of ports takes on a surreal quality. Days blend in to each other, and time gets muddled. I guess that is part of the experience that is a holiday.

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The Danes - their play and power

After the rain of yesterday, the sun shone perfectly today. We have walked the length and bredth of this city, and it is so lovely. Melbourne has Luna Park, and Copenhagen has the Tivoli Gardens, over 100 years old. There are the most amazing rides, scary ones for adults, and miniature parallel ones for the children. All this set amidst pretty trees and gardens, and a lake. It is set right in the middle of the city, and seems to attract locals and visitors in droves. No, I did not venture on the rides, looking at them was excitment enough, just watching faces as they were being dragged to the top of a pole , only to plummet down again.

The wind is picking up, and it is interesting to see how the power generating windmills that generate power from their situation in the harbour, are spinning well. They are an accepted part of the cityscape here, you wonder if they will have to become more widely accepted as a power source.

The wind could well be a factor in our first days at sea. Predictions for very strong winds all through Northern Europe and Scandinavia.
I have enjoyed Copenhagen. The Danes have a clean fresh design and if you see their homes, it is reflected there, but equally they create a cosy feel which would be big factor for the long cold dark winters. But it is time to move on.

More soon.

We leave and arrive to leave

It seemed surreal as we drove to the airport on Monday - it takes a while to realise you are actually going , after all the months of planning. But off we went, and the first evening over the red centre of Australia saw the most glorious sunset - stripes of dark blue and purple blending to crimson and red and pink and gold, as if repeating the colours of ochre and gold and red of the sand and desert beneath. It was a magnificent display. The flight itself was quite rough, with the crew having to cease service every so often.

Australians grow up knowing we have to travel a long way just to leave the shores to the north, and the time never gets shorter.Bangkok came and went in a fog of lack of sleep and that weird disorientation that comes with a long period of travel. We left the lounge for the Copenhagen flight with half an hour to spare - the terminal is so long : though we left with the flight listed as 'open', by the time we made the gate 25 minutes later, it was on 'final call', and we don't walk slowly.

Some sleep was had and we had terrific seats and staff, so Copenhagen appeared below us. It has rained all day, but we managed to negotiate the train system to get to the hotel on our own , and also a 20 minute train trip across the huge bridge to Malmo in Sweden. Copenhagen is looking rather tried in places but perhaps the weather doesnt help. Cyclists rule the roads it seems, the city is quite flat so it makes sense.

We walked past (and undernearth) the Royal Library/ The road literally passes under one of the reading areas and some of the walokways between the two buildings. It is very modern design and overlooks the main canal.


So the first day has been had, and we are about to meet our new home for the next two weeks. The ship will be in on Thursday, so we move from the air to track, to water, and hope for fair weather.


More soon.